Not sure where to start? Purchasing RAM isn’t hard as long as you know what type to get for your specific Mac. We like OWC’s and Ramjet’s user- and noob-friendly upgrade kits that take the guesswork out of matching up Mac specs with RAM. If you’re comfortable doing that on your own, you could also consider less Mac-focused third-party RAM manufacturers like Kingston, Corsair, and Crucial.
Whatever route you go, remember that different processors have different memory requirements, so it’s important to purchase RAM that matches the numbers on your CPU for optimal performance. This information is available in your System Profiler. To find it, go to the Apple Menu > About This Mac and click More Info. Select Memory from the left side of the window. From here, you can grab your Mac’s Model Identifier, which you can then plug into RAM manufacturers’ websites to figure out what type of system configuration you’re running and the exact memory specifications, including how fast your memory bus speed is.
Your System Profiler has all the information about your Mac’s innards.
Before you buy, you’ll need to know what your Mac requires from these variables:
Format
DIMM or SO-DIMM generally differentiates between desktop and laptop RAM, but both the iMac and Mac mini lines use the smaller SO-DIMM modules.
Type
Labeled with acronyms like SDRAM, DDR2, DDR3 and more. You can’t substitute one type for another.
Speed
Usually expressed in MHz, but sometimes labeled as “PCnnn.” Make sure it matches the default that’s in your current Mac setup.
In the end, the performance of RAM really depends on the speed and latency. The speed rating of the RAM should always match the processor’s memory, and a lower latency ensures faster data transfer speeds.
MacBook (mid 2010)
DDR3 SDRAM 1066MHz
MacBook Pro (early 2011)
DDR3 SDRAM 1333MHz
MacBook Air (late 2010)
DDR3 SDRAM 1066MHz
Mac mini (mid 2010)
DDR3 SDRAM 1066MHz
iMac (mid 2010)
DDR3 SDRAM 1333MHz
Mac Pro (mid 2010/Nehalem or Westmere)
DDR3 SDRAM 1333MHz
Mac Pro Server (mid 2010/Nehalem)
DDR3 SDRAM 1333MHz
Don’t see your Mac here? No problem! Everymac.com is one of the best resources out there because it gives you the exact specs of what kind of RAM you’ve got fueling your system. Use that to cross-reference the memory you’re looking at purchasing and ensure it’s the right fit for your Mac.
davey
July 12, 2011 at 7:41am
They why do we get pushed towards "apple certified" ram? Should it matter? or what information do we need to find/ask to find good non-certified(cheaper ram).
For instance Quantum Technologies(no relationship)has apple cert 16gb (2x8gb)kit PC1333, sodimm, 204pin, 199.99$ for value, 295.99 premium line, and on the "apple certified" side 1599.99 for value, 1999.99 for premium line(hypermedia). for comparison OWC 1419.99 for a 2x8gb kit for MBP.
I do know OWC uses 8layer pcb which is supposed to be more stable than 6layer as used in standard Crucial ram on newegg and probably many other cheaper brands. Other than that i'm not sure what else.
regardless of reason if I wanted to maxout my mac what do we need to know.
MacNewton
June 28, 2011 at 6:34pm
Heads up for non-techs, ESD will kill your computer. Professional Mac techs are well trained in this area, although some of them don't follow this procedure. A good tech will. Keep this in mind when you see someone handling RAM without protection. Remember, EST may not kill your computer right away, but it may give you problems down the road. Test your RAM after installing.
Short for ElectroStatic Discharge, ESD is one of the few things an individual can do to damage or destroy his or her computer or hardware components. Much like the shock you receive when rubbing your feet on the carpet and touching something metal, ESD can occur when working in your computer and will cause components you touch to no longer work properly. ESD can occur without the user feeling a shock and will only occur while working on the inside of the computer or handling RAM.
How to help prevent ESD
The best method of preventing ESD is to use an ESD wrist strap or use a grounding mat or table. However, because most users do not have access to such items, we have included the below steps to help reduce the chances of ESD as much as possible.
If after working inside your computer or adding new RAM your computer no longer boots properly, the problem may be damaged RAM - If you did't know about ESD, you may have damaged the strip.
purplemaizenjm
June 22, 2011 at 5:49pm
Thank you for the information... I did have the guide in my computer but somehow it got deleted... Thanks again.
