4. Stop flashing me

If you’re shooting using an automatic mode (like the close-up mode, often designated by a flower icon), your camera may insist on activating its onboard flash. If incandescent light is ugly, the on-camera flash is usually hideous. Flash not only causes shadows that are unbelievably harsh (and often comically distorted), but also washes out much of the item’s detail, particularly if it’s at all reflective.

Unfortunately, when a camera automatically kicks in with the flash, it often means there isn’t enough light. Using more or brighter lights may automatically solve the problem. If the camera still insists on popping off the flash, you may once again have to hunt through the settings. Often, an option exists that’s still an automatic mode but that specifically keeps the flash from firing. (On some cameras, this is called “museum” mode.)

If you simply can’t light the item adequately without flash, you can minimize the damage using certain backdrops. The white poster board solution in step 1 will probably show harsh shadows, but not as badly as some other backdrops. Better yet, shoot against an entirely black backdrop that will absorb the flash and hide the hard shadows. Black cloth works well if you can keep it from wrinkling.

Step 4. On the left, the camera's flash blows out the details. Using a black backdrop (right) absorbs the extra light.

----

5. Caffiene overdose much?

Shaky camera work is great for cheap horror movies, but not so good for product shots. Stabilizing your camera will reduce or eliminate camera shake and give you a sharper photo.

Tripods, of course, are king. If you have one, this is the time to break it out—no excuses! If you don’t have one, try bracing the camera on a table or door jam. A cushion or microbead pillow can be a miracle device in this situation, allowing you to press the camera into it for good stabilization while retaining maneuverability. Oh, and hold your breath when you press the shutter button—it really does help.

Step 5. Time to switch to decaf.

----

6. Back off a bit

Two problems result from placing the camera too close to products when shooting. First, it distorts the product, sometimes drastically. This can be a cool effect for certain print ads, but is probably not what you want for a simple Craigslist posting. Backing off a bit and zooming in will capture a much more natural-looking shot.

Second, shooting from too close can cause your autofocus to balk. Most cameras allow decently close focusing, but if your autofocus starts endlessly “hunting,” racking in and out because it’s unable to lock on, it’s probably because you’re not far enough away from the item.

If you shoot from too far away, however, camera shake is exacerbated. So make sure to use the tips in step 5 to stabilize the camera.

Step 6. The top picture is out of focus because we were too close. Better to back off a bit—you can always crop later.

----

7. Play the angles

Many, if not most, eBay and Craigslist shots couldn’t be more boring because the seller photographed the product dead on from one side. With some products that works OK, but most will benefit from being angled. The classic approach involves shooting from about a 45-degree angle from the front and from 30 to 45 degrees above. The best angle will vary by item.

Shooting at an angle is more attractive, showing more of the product and making it more tangible. Plus, it helps you avoid ugly reflections from the product itself, if it’s at all reflective.

Speaking of reflections, if you’re shooting larger items and thus have to widen your shot to include most of a room, watch out for other surfaces that might reflect lights, the camera, or even you. Some eBay sellers have inadvertently (or, we suspect, quite on purpose) included distant mirrors in their shots and revealed more than just their for-sale detritus to the world—like their preference for shooting while nude. Don’t be that guy.

Step 7. Straight on = boring. Angled = sold!