Your Mac is a hefty investment, so it’s in your best interest to keep it running well for as long as you can. Upgrading its components instead of going for a new machine is a smart idea. (Bonus: Better components will also increase the resale value.)
Still, like we said, your Mac is a hefty investment. So before you crack it open to drop in a larger and faster hard drive, add more system memory, or even slap on a fresh new battery, you’ll have questions. You’ll want to be confident in choosing components, finding the right tools, and knowing what to do before you find yourself digging into your Mac’s circuitry.
Unfortunately, we can’t walk you through your upgrade step by step--each model of Mac is different, and they’re revised on a regular basis. But we can answer your questions about upgrading and give you the know-how you need to pick out the parts, locate the instructions, and get it done. Your upgraded Mac will work much better, plus you’ll be a happy camper knowing you did it all yourself.
The low-hanging fruit of any Mac upgrade, more RAM equals more get-up-and-go.
It’s wise to compare prices before you check out at the Apple Store. Sometimes Apple’s RAM is cheaper than third-party prices, but often it’s much more expensive. And since Apple’s build-to-order options don’t always allow you to max out RAM when you buy, upgrading later may be the only way to load your Mac with as much memory as it supports.
That said, if you’re squeamish about opening your computer, the convenience of getting extra RAM preinstalled may be worth the compromises. RAM not installed by Apple isn’t covered under your Mac’s warranty or AppleCare, and neither is damage caused by faulty RAM modules or their installation. But just between us, installing your own RAM is an easy and typically trouble-free procedure when done correctly.
This laptop-sized SO-DIMM has 204 pins. The pins are what connect the module to the RAM slot.
The RAM modules--or, more accurately, SDRAM modules--used by modern Macs come in a variety of speeds and two physical designs: desktop-sized DIMMs and compact, laptop-friendly SO-DIMMs. Many flavors of RAM have come and gone over the years, but the latest is DDR3, which moves data even faster than earlier DDR memory, while using less power. Although it may seem like there’s a galaxy of RAM to choose from, the memory you need depends on which Mac you want to upgrade, and your Mac’s needs are specific. So don’t worry about having to decide between cheaper DDR2 RAM and speedier, more expensive DDR3 RAM--you won’t have a choice.
Click the Apple Menu and select About This Mac to see how much RAM you have.
Apple lists the type of RAM each currently selling Mac uses on the Tech Specs page for that Mac on Apple.com. For example, the current iMacs come with 4GB of 1066MHz DDR3 SDRAM in two 2GB SO-DIMMS. The iMac’s four SO-DIMM slots can support a total of 16GB, meaning four 4GB SO-DIMM modules.
But that’s just the Macs for sale right now. To find out what kind of RAM is in your own Mac, click the Apple Menu and select About This Mac. The Memory section will tell you how much RAM you have installed and what kind it is--according to the screenshot, our MacBook Pro has 4GB (amount) of 667MHz (speed) DDR2 SDRAM (type). For more details on the individual RAM modules installed in your Mac’s memory slots, click More Info to launch System Profiler, then click Memory in the sidebar (under Hardware).
However, this won’t tell you the maximum amount of RAM your Mac supports. If your Mac isn’t a current model, research sites like Everymac.com or simply go shopping. Many RAM vendors’ websites list a Mac’s capacity alongside its compatible memory.
Crucial (crucial.com) is happy to tell us our MacBook Pro supports up to 4GB of RAM.
Want to? Sure. More RAM lets your Mac handle memory-intensive tasks like gaming, video editing, and running multiple applications simultaneously. Adding as much RAM as possible helps ensure your Mac will be ready for a variety of tasks--and RAM-hungry software updates--for years to come.
Need to? Not so much. While RAM is an easy, inexpensive way to boost your computer’s performance, an extra gigabyte or two over Apple’s stock configuration may be enough for everyday use.
Other World Computing carries RAM from several manufacturers for one-stop comparison shopping.
First, arm yourself with as much information about your computer and its supported RAM as possible. Many vendors use detailed technical specifications--even screen size--to differentiate one Mac model from another. Crucial (crucial.com) even has a System Scanner tool that can auto-detect your Mac model.
Ramseeker.com lets you compare RAM prices based on specific Mac models. Sites like Pricewatch.com, PriceGrabber.com, and larger Mac-friendly retailers like Other World Computing (macsales.com) let you compare prices based on RAM type and manufacturer.
This DDR3 DIMM can go in a current Mac Pro.
Some Macs, like many Xserves and Mac Pros, require RAM to be installed in two modules of the same size and specifications--check your manual to be sure. Others, including all Intel Macs, don’t require matched pairs, but will see some speed benefits with matched memory. But even in these machines, more unmatched memory (say, one 2GB module and a 1GB module for a total of 3GB) generally provides greater benefit than a smaller amount of matched RAM (say, two 1GB modules for a total of 2GB).
Find Other World Computing's how-to-install videos at eshop.macsales.com/installvideos/.
Your Mac’s instruction manual or support documents on Apple’s website (support.apple.com) will show you how to install memory in your computer. Failing that, some Mac hardware vendors like iFixit.com, Crucial, and Other World Computing offer instructions on their websites--often as easy-to-follow videos--for a wide variety of Macs.
Choose About This Mac from the Apple Menu. You should see your new RAM total in the Memory section. If the number isn’t what you expect, shut down your computer, unplug all the cables, then access your Mac’s RAM slots again and make sure the new RAM modules are firmly seated.
So many acronyms, am I right?
DIMM: Dual inline memory module. Also known as a RAM module or chip, installed into a slot in your desktop Mac.
DDR2: Second-generation double-data-rate SDRAM; bandwidth up to 8.5GB/sec.
DDR3: Third-generation double-data-rate SDRAM; bandwidth up to 12.8GB/sec.
ECC: Error-correcting code. ECC RAM modules, which are used in Mac Pros, have extra chips that detect and fix errors in reading or writing to the memory.
SDRAM: Synchronous dynamic random-access memory. Or just "RAM" for short.
SO-DIMM: Small outline dual inline memory module. (See why we need acronyms?) Smaller than a DIMM, SO-DIMM modules are used in Mac laptops and iMacs.
Here are our favorite Mac-centric dealers on the internet, compared on the basis of what you’ll pay for a 4GB RAM upgrade kit and an SSD for Susie’s trusty workhorse, a 2.4GHz 15-inch MacBook Pro (late 2007 Santa Rosa model). Prices change all the time; these are accurate as of press time.
| Store Name | URL | RAM Price | SSD Price | Notes |
| OWC | macsales.com | $97.50; OWC 4GB PC5300 DDR2 667MHz Upgrade Kit (two 2GB modules) | $399.99; Crucial 128GB M225 2.5-inch SSD | Site is somewhat cluttered, but we still manage to find what we need easily. Live chat with customer service. |
| Crucial | crucial.com | $97.99; Crucial 4GB Kit PC5300 DDR2 667MHz | $399.99; Crucial 128GB M225 2.5-inch SSD | Memory Advisor tool and System Scanner help you find compatible parts for your Mac. Live chat with customer service. |
| MacMall | macmall.com | $149.99; Kingston Upgrade to 4GB PC2-5300 DDR2 667MHz | $542.99; Axiom 128GB 2.5-inch SATA SSD | Confusing navigation. No way to see all compatible parts for your Mac. |
| iFixit.com | ifixit.com | $119.90; Two 2GB PC2-5300 DDR2 667MHz (two 2GB modules) | $299.95; Intel 80GB 2.5-inch SATA SSD (128GB capacity not available) | Our favorite site for upgrade and repair instructions. |
| Powerbook Medic | powerbookmedic.com | $97.90; Two 2GB PC5300 DDR2 667MHz modules ($48.95 each) | $349.95; 128GB SSD MacBook and MacBook Pro | Lots of parts and detailed instructions. Send in Mac if the repair is too tricky. |
Your Mac's hard drive is like a closet that stores your whole digital life. Might as well make it a walk-in.
Convenience and cost. A laptop with a large hard drive lets you carry more files with you without requiring extra gear. External drives are great for backup, but you don’t want to have to juggle them--and the power cords they may require--while you’re on the go. In desktop Macs, more built-in storage reduces the need for workspace-cluttering external drives and helps you avoid lengthy searches for files across multiple devices.
A desktop-sized 3.5-inch SATA drive comes in larger capacities.
Plus, internal drives tend to be much less expensive than their external counterparts, so your dollar will go further when you boost a Mac’s built-in storage. This can pay off down the road when you’re finally ready to replace your Mac with new model--a large internal drive will make your computer more desirable to buyers on the secondhand market.
Your Mac’s manual can tell you what internal hard drive specifications your computer supports. If you’ve lost your manual, just find your Mac’s serial number in System Profiler--click the word Hardware at the top of the left-hand pane, then locate your Mac’s serial number and copy/paste it into the Search Manuals box at support.apple.com/manuals/. Or consult the website of your favorite Mac-centric retailer (see “Shop Different,” left) to see available drives for different Mac models.
But we’ll get you started with some basics. All modern Macs use a hard drive connection called Serial ATA, or SATA. This simplifies your shopping a little, but Mac hard drives aren’t quite one size fits all. The SATA drive you need depends on what kind of Mac you have.
MacBooks and MacBook Pros use 2.5-inch hard disk drives (or HDDs) that run between 5200 and 7200 RPM. These speeds determine how quickly data can be read from and written to the drive. The more revolutions per minute, the faster your drive. Currently, most 2.5-inch HDDs offer a maximum capacity of 750GB.
Crucial's 2.5-inch 256GB SATA SSD will set you back $700 at crucial.com.
Solid-state drives (or SSDs) are increasingly popular in laptops--they’ve been build-to-order options in the MacBook Air and MacBook Pro for a few years. These drives use flash memory that has no moving parts, so data can be read from them even faster than from HDDs. This increased speed is an SSD’s main benefit. They’re currently more expensive and offer much smaller capacity than conventional drives. Anything larger than 256GB will currently cost you four figures, moneybags.
Desktop Macs use 3.5-inch HDDs that run at 7200 RPM. These drives offer much greater maximum storage capacities than their laptop counterparts--up to 2TB.
MacBook owners, you’re in luck. All MacBook models sport hard drives you can replace without voiding your warranty. Unfortunately, not all MacBook Pro owners are as fortunate. MacBook Pros with a unibody design (those sold after October 2008) have user-replaceable hard drives, but older models don’t. No model of MacBook Air offers a hard drive users can swap out for another.
However, you don’t need Apple’s say-so to upgrade the drive in an unsupported machine. Unofficial drive-replacement instructions for any Mac laptop are available on the internet at Powerbookmedic.com, iFixit.com, and elsewhere. All that’s required is a Google search, steady hands, and a flagrant disregard for AppleCare coverage. But be warned--these renegade procedures aren’t for the faint of heart. Some involve significantly dismantling your computer, and any damage incurred definitely won’t be covered by Cupertino. Then again, if your warranty is up anyway, grab a screwdriver and get cracking.
First, gather as much information about your Mac and the type of drive it supports. Stores often differentiate internal hard drives only by a confusing alphabet soup of numbers, acronyms, and manufacturer names. A little research up front can make your shopping that much easier.
When you’ve done your homework, it’s time to hit the internet. Sites like Pricewatch.com and PriceGrabber.com let you compare drives by size, manufacturer, capacity, and other features. But don’t forget to visit Mac-savvy retailers such as Other World Computing, Small Dog Electronics, or MacMall. These stores make it easy to find a specific Mac model and choose a compatible drive. If you know what you want, Newegg’s and Amazon’s prices are often tough to beat.
SMARTReporter pops up an error when the S.M.A.R.T. status of your hard drive is anything other than "Verified."
If you hear a clicking sound, that’s bad. Really bad. But monitoring your drive’s S.M.A.R.T. status can clue you in before it gets to that point of no return. In Disk Utility, select your hard drive from the sidebar and look for “S.M.A.R.T. status: Verified,” which means the Self-Monitoring Analysis and Reporting Technology built into your drive isn’t detecting any problems. To keep the S.M.A.R.T status front and center, SMARTReporter (free, www.corecode.at/smartreporter) can put it in your menubar. A green hard-drive icon in the menubar means everything’s okay.
First things first--back up all the data on any drive you’re replacing (see “How to Transfer Data to Your New Hard Drive,” below), then print out and read thoroughly the instructions for installing your new drive. Carefully organize any tools the installation requires. Setting aside a container to hold the tiny screws and other parts you may need to remove can save you time--and stress--when putting your Mac back together when the job is done. We like to stick the screws to our printed-out instructions with double-sided tape, so we know exactly which step in the process those screws go with.
The insides of a 3.5-inch SATA drive, which hopefully you'll never see. Ooh, shiny.
Next, turn off your computer and let it cool down for 10 minutes to make sure any heat lingering inside has a chance to dissipate. Unplug all cables (especially the power cord) from your Mac before you get started on the installation.
Electricity runs your computer, but it has no place in a hard drive transplant. Work on a static-free surface--no wool sweaters or shag carpets for you--and touch a metal object to discharge any static electricity you’ve picked up before you handle your Mac’s internal components or the new drive. Many stores that sell internal hard drives also offer anti-static wrist straps that help ensure you don’t accidentally zap anything as you work. Get one if you want to stay as safe as possible with your Mac.
Western Digital's 2.5-inch drives fit in Mac laptops.
Almost every computer user swears by a particular manufacturer, and one fan’s favorite will be another person’s “Worst. Drive. Ever.” So who’s right? The facts are that any computer equipment can fail unexpectedly, and any manufacturer can put out a batch of problematic hard drives from time to time. After all, a hard drive’s delicate moving parts are subject to wear and tear over repeated use just like anything else. Your best bet is to buy a known brand with a good warranty like Samsung, Western Digital, or Seagate. Buy from a reputable store, and make multiple backups often.
When it’s time to upgrade your hard drive, you have to get your current data--including Mac OS X and your applications, naturally--moved over to the new device. Mac|Life recommends you clone your whole drive onto the new one.
AppZapper finds and deletes an app's related files.
First banish the clutter from your current hard drive. Take a spin through your Documents, Pictures, Music, Movies, and Applications folders and delete items you’re sure you don’t want. AppCleaner (free, freemacsoft.net/AppCleaner/), AppZapper ($12.95, appzapper.com), or Hazel ($21.95, noodlesoft.com, see here) can help you delete the application and its preference files along with the app itself.
When you pick out your new hard drive, buy an enclosure for it too. They aren’t expensive--Other World Computing sells them for less than $20. Get an enclosure made for SATA drives that connects to your Mac via USB (same size as the drive you’re buying--2.5 inches for laptops and 3.5 inches for desktops). Install your brand-new hard drive in it, and connect it to your Mac with a USB cable. It should mount on your Desktop as a removable drive.
Reformat your drive with Disk Utility.
Launch Disk Utility, select the drive you just attached, click the Erase tab, and format the new drive (not your old one!) as Mac OS Extended (Journaled). This will also erase anything on the new drive; sometimes they ship with included utilities and software you don’t care about. We want it empty.
Carbon Copy Cloner will copy everything on your current hard drive to your new one.
Download Carbon Copy Cloner (donations accepted, bombich.com) or SuperDuper! ($27.95, shirt-pocket.com), and use it to make an exact, bootable clone of your current hard drive on the new hard drive you formatted in Step 3.
iFixit's illustrated instructions are specific to each Mac model.
Eject the removable hard drive from your Mac in the normal fashion, then remove the drive from the enclosure. Find and follow the instructions to install the bare drive in your Mac--your Mac’s manual or the guides at iFixit.com, Powerbookmedic.com, or Other World Computing will walk you through it.
When your new hard drive is installed, boot up your Mac and make sure everything looks right. Now you can install your old hard drive in the empty enclosure, and use it like an external drive. All done!
Next Page: Video Cards and Optical Drives >>
Mac Pro owners only: Your spacious case leads to easy upgrades and longer life.
Look at all that room inside a Mac Pro. Makes you want to roll up your sleeves and swap out some components...
These high-powered machines are the multipurpose workhorses of the Mac world, and they’re designed to be easily upgradeable to perform a variety of jobs. Expandability also helps protect the steep financial investment these Macs represent--and require--against early obsolescence.
Power and flexibility. Gamers and media pros know that replacing an older card with the latest pixel pusher from Nvidia or ATI extends a Mac Pro’s useful life. Not only can new cards handle images, video, and 3D fragfests at higher resolutions, they speed up some everyday tasks in OS X as well. But don’t kick your old card to the curb when you upgrade. Two video cards let you use up to four monitors with your Mac Pro, offering significantly more screen real estate for all your applications.
Video cards can be bought from Apple or almost any vendors specializing in Mac hardware. Apple publishes a partial list of cards compatible with the Power Mac G5 and Mac Pro lines that can help you plan your shopping trip.
Video cards available for preinstallation by Apple can sometimes be found cheaper at other stores, but not always. As with RAM, it’s smart to compare Apple’s prices with those of third-party vendors before you buy. But upgrading yourself can offer more choices. Not every Mac-compatible card--such as the Nvidia Quadro FX 4800--is available as a build-to-order option from Apple.
Don't pay $100 for a second SuperDrive in your Mac Pro. You can fill the empty optical-drive bay yourself later.
Optical drives are a different story. Currently, the only way to customize a Mac Pro’s spare optical drive bay at checkout is by adding a second SuperDrive that’s identical to the first. Go ahead and leave that bay empty. You can install a comparable DVD drive yourself for less than half of Apple’s asking price.
Adding Blu-ray to your Mac Pro makes sense only if you need to work with Blu-ray data discs or author your own movies in the format (you’ll also need a copy of Toast or Final Cut Studio to do either). Until Cupertino hops on the Blu bandwagon, OS X can’t natively read Blu-ray, much less play District 9 in glorious 1080p on your 30-inch Cinema Display.
This lack of system-wide support--and hardware costs higher than those of standard DVD drives--make Blu-ray on the Mac a technological no-man’s-land for the average user. But if you’re still tempted, it’s easy to add a Blu-ray drive to your Mac Pro.
Almost any store that sells computer components offers internal Blu-ray drives that will fit your Mac Pro. But for the simplest shopping experience, stick with stores that cater to Mac customers. Some, like Other World Computing, offer bundles that include necessary software and other extras along with the drive.
You’ll want a 5.25-inch Blu-ray drive to fit your Mac Pro’s spare optical drive bay. These drives connect using a standard SATA interface, so they’ll install in Mac Pros sold since March 2009 with no fuss. For an older Mac Pro, you’ll need to buy inexpensive adapter cables to connect it to the PATA (also known as ATA/IDE) optical drive interface in these Macs. Installation instructions can be found in your Mac Pro’s manual, the support section of Apple’s website, or even from the store that sold you the drive.
While you’re shopping for parts to upgrade your Mac, don’t forget to pick up any tools you might need. These are essential for your toolbox. Find them at your local hardware store, or at Other World Computing (macsales.com) or iFixit (iFixit.com).
Phillips screwdriver set. Or at least the 00, 0, 1, and 2 sizes of Phillips screwdrivers. Newer technology's 11-piece toolset is only $17.95 and has everything you need.
Torx screwdriver set. You'll most likely need the T6 or T8, but pick up a whole set if you can so you're never stuck without the right size. iFixit sells a 26-Piece Bit Driver Kit for $14.95 that includes every Torx and Phillips screwdriver they carry.
Spudger sticks. These nylon pry tools help you seat RAM modules, remove other computer parts, and open up iPods.
A putty knife. You'll need one if you're planning to open a Mac mini.
Next Page: Batteries >>
Your laptop's battery is nearly as essential as its screen--and it's easier to replace.
How much juice your battery still holds on a full charge depends on your charging habits and which laptop you have. Apple claims the nonremovable batteries in MacBook Pros retain 80% of their original capacity for up to 1,000 charge cycles, and you can expect roughly the same performance from batteries in the latest MacBooks. A MacBook Air’s battery offers similar results for up to 750 cycles, and the most recent Apple laptops with removable batteries will keep delivering at 80% capacity for 300 cycles.
System Profiler can fill you in on your battery's health.
What’s a charge cycle? It’s a full discharge of your battery followed by a full recharge. To find out how many your battery has gone through, launch System Profiler from your Mac’s Utilities folder, then click Power in the sidebar. Your battery’s cycle count is in the Health Information section of the resulting window. If the number exceeds Apple’s benchmarks, and you find yourself scanning rooms for power outlets, it may be time for a new battery.
With the unibody's slim design comes a trade-off: a nonremovable battery.
All MacBooks released before October 2009 and MacBook Pros released before October 2008 have user-replaceable batteries. You just buy a new one and slap it on; heck, you can even tote a spare for marathon computing sessions. The batteries in all MacBook Airs, unibody MacBooks, and unibody MacBook Pros aren’t considered user-replaceable.
Newer Technology's batteries are a little cheaper than Apple's.
Replacing the batteries built into Apple’s latest laptops requires taking your Mac to an authorized service center. Replacement batteries for other Mac laptops are available from Apple or from many stores that specialize in Mac hardware. Some third-party manufacturers, such as NewerTechnology (newertech.com), sell their own Mac-compatible batteries for less money and at higher maximum capacities than Apple’s offerings.
The HyperMac batteries sure don’t come cheap. Depending on which MacBook you own, you’re looking at $200 to roughly double your battery life or $400 to more than triple it. (HyperMac also offers $300 and $500 batteries; hit hypershop.com for the gory details.) It’s important to note that those performance stats really vary depending on what you’re doing--watching a DVD movie, for instance, drains batteries approximately twice as fast as just writing in Word or browsing the web. That can be invaluable, and we really appreciate how HyperMacs include a USB port for charging your iPod or whatever. So, yes, they’re a great option if you need to extend your battery life and can afford the steep pricing, but if that’s not you, we’d recommend putting those greenbacks toward something else... like that iPad you know you want.
Newer Technological sells battery conditioners ($149.95, newertech.com) for every Apple laptop.
Battery conditioners automate the monthly full discharge and recharge cycle recommended by Apple if you don’t use your laptop often. This helps keep the battery’s electrons active and can improve the accuracy of its “fuel gauge” in OS X, giving you a more accurate picture of its remaining charge.
Keep your software up to date. System updates have the latest power-management features, and Apple occasionally releases updates that address battery issues. Protect your Mac from extreme temperatures, especially heat. “Exercise” your battery by charging it intermittently throughout the day, and avoid leaving it plugged in for long periods. If your laptop will be stored for more than six months, give it a 50 percent charge before shutting it down.
Difficulty Level: Easy
What You Need:
>> New iPhone battery ($19.95, ifixit.com)
>> Phillips 00 screwdriver (iFixiit includes one with your battery)
>> Two spudgers (we used one pointy black spudger and one flatter greenish spudger)
>> A soft cloth to cover your work surface
>> Small suction cup ($2.95, ifixit.com)
Once your iPhone is a couple of years old, you might notice the battery lasting less time on each charge. Apple can replace it for $79 plus $6.95 shipping (apple.com/support/iphone/service/battery/), but you can buy a new battery for around $20 online and do it yourself.
We have helpful, step-by-step videos for all iPhones at maclife.com/iphone_battery_videos. They point out every single screw, connector, and part you need to know.
