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Quick Look QuickTime

Scott Rose — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 12:35:44 -0500

Why did Apple remove the QuickTime controls from the Finder windows? I now have to launch the movie if I want to examine its contents or play from the beginning in the window. What a stupid idea.

The QuickTime controls aren’t really gone, they’re just a little harder to find. In Mac OS 10.5, aka Leopard, a Finder window will indeed show you a preview of a QuickTime movie, if you’re using the Column view (go to View > Columns, press Command-3, or click the Column View button in the toolbar). Select a QuickTime movie in the column, and in the column next to it, you’ll see a preview—just mouse over it to make a Play button appear, and then mouse over the playing video to see the Stop button.

Quick Look rocks our worlds on a daily basis.

You can’t scrub through a QuickTime file that way, but remember that Quick Look (a fantastic feature arguably worth Leopard’s entire $129 sticker price) will let you preview QuickTime files without opening them at all. Select the file and press the spacebar: Voilà--the file plays in a resizable, movable Quick Look window, and you can jump around in time and even watch the video full-screen.

QuickTime 7.6.2 Improved Update

JC Domingo — Tue, 02 Jun 2009 12:34:20 -0500

The new QuickTime 7.6.2 is here and better than ever. Apple's Support site states that it will “increase reliability, improve compatibility and enhance security.” Prior to this version, “opening a maliciously crafted FLC compression file may lead to an unexpected application termination or arbitrary code execution.”

It’s now compatible with Apple ProRes media, which means you’ll be able to view brighter, sharper video quality. It has also been improved to support iTunes 8.2, the new version of iTunes compatible with iPhone software 3.0.

Check out evidence found of a new iPhone on the horizon.

Rumor: QuickTime X Getting YouTube Sharing Support

Roberto Baldwin — Mon, 27 Apr 2009 19:42:43 -0500

AppleInsider is reporting that the upcoming release of QuickTime X will include the ability to share video directly to YouTube. The feature will allegedly convert the video for YouTube before uploading.

Apple would also support uploading videos to its MobileMe service from QuickTime X.

This information is allegedly culled from reports of developers who have seen the new "Share" menu in the QuickTime X interface.

If this is true, this will further cement Apple's relationship with Google. Already Apple and Google have struck up deals concerning YouTube. The YouTube app on the iPhone is possible because Apple and Google came to an agreement that YouTube videos would be re-encoded, and encoded in the future, in the H.264 format. This deal allowed YouTube videos to be viewed on the iPhone without Apple having to implement Flash on the iPhone.

50 Things Every Mac Geek Should Know

Mac|Life Staff — Wed, 04 Mar 2009 06:01:09 -0600

Like a champion cyclist knows bike parts,a car buff knows model years, and a sports fan knows win-loss records, all Mac geeks worth the title must know these things.

Marketers and Madison Avenue operators like to reduce consumers to either/or “types”—paper or plastic, boxers or briefs, cotton or cashmere, Honda or Mercedes, Cristal or Bud--you get the idea. But what often fails to register in such a superficial worldview are the specific reasons behind what we choose when presented with a “this or that?” decision.

When it comes to computing, the question is Mac or Windows? And, as a Mac user, your allegiance to your platform of choice--as in marriage--isn’t entered into lightly. But once you renounce the Dark Side and join the growing legions of Mac enthusiasts, it’s not enough to maintain a casual connection to your Mac, iPhone, iPod, or Apple TV. The difference between a Mac user and a Mac geek isn’t just how attached you are to your Apple tech--or how often you publicly proclaim that attachment with logo T-shirts, “Think Different” bumper stickers, or by plastering everything you own with Apple logo stickers. Your level of geekitude depends on how deeply you strive to connect with your Mac and OS X--yeah, we know it sounds like psychobabble. The point, friends, is that being a Mac geek is distinguishable from being any other kind of tech geek, because although it helps to have some basic knowledge of technical geekery, like, say, the names of certain coding languages or the fact that Mac OS X is a Unix-type operating system, you need never have written or even seen a line of Unix code to join the ranks of Mac geekdom. All you need, really, is passion for your Apple gadgets--how you show it is up to you.

But to help give you the street cred--that is Mac knowledge--to back up the passion, we present the 50 things you really should know if you want to call yourself a Mac geek. If you’re a recent convert to the Way of the Mac, be sure you study this compendium so you can move up a few levels of geekitude. If you’re a longtime Mac geek, test your know-how against our list--and be sure to let us know what we missed by flaming us at editor@maclife.com.

1976 - 21-year-old Steve Jobs quits his job at Atari and persuades computer engineer Steve Wozniak to quit his job at Hewlett-Packard to start Apple Computer out of Jobs’ garage. On April 1, Jobs, Wozniak, and third founder, Ronald Wayne, introduce the first Apple computer, the Apple I personal computer kit, priced at $666.66.

1977 - Wayne sells his shares of the company back to Jobs and Woz for $800, and Apple Computer is incorporated on January 3 without him. On April 16, the Apple II is introduced at the first West Coast Computer Faire.

1980 - In May, the Apple III is released, competing with IBM and Microsoft in business computing.

1982 - Jobs, who started working on the Apple Lisa two years before, is pushed out of the development team because of in-fighting; he takes over the low-cost Macintosh project from Jef Raskin.

1983 - The Lisa team wins the development race, releasing the Lisa as the first personal computer sold to the public with a graphic user interface (GUI). Its high price and limited software doomed Lisa to commercial failure.

1984 - On January 22, Apple launches the Macintosh with the now-famous “1984” ad, shown during Super Bowl XVIII. Strong sales--a result, it’s now known, of the availability of the Apple LaserWriter printer and PageMaker desktop publishing software--lead the company to go public on September 7.

1985 - After in-fighting develops between Jobs and Apple Computer CEO John Sculley, Jobs resigns from Apple and founds NeXT Inc.

1991 - Apple introduces the PowerBook portable computer and the upgraded operating system known as System 7, which, with its enhanced networking capabilities and colorful interface, remained the architectural basis for the Mac OS until 2001. The company’s revenue was significantly increased with the success of the PowerBook and other products.

1994 - Apple joins forces with IBM and Motorola to create the PowerPC Reference Platform.

1997 - Apple CEO Gil Amelio decides to purchase NeXT and bring Jobs back to Apple as an advisor. On July 9, Amelio is ousted, and Jobs becomes interim CEO. At Macworld Expo, Jobs announces that Microsoft will release new versions of its Office suite for the Mac.

1998 - Apple introduces the all-in-one iMac, designed by Jonathan Ive. With sales of almost 800,000 units in the first five months, the iMac put Apple in the black for the first time since 1993.

2001 - Apple announced Mac OS X, based on NeXT’s OPENSTEP and BSD Unix. In May, Apple opened the first Apple retail stores in Virginia and California. That fall, Apple released the iPod portable music player.

2003 - The iTunes Store opens up online.

2006 - At the WWDC in June, Apple announces it will integrate Intel processors into Macs.

2007 - At the Mac Expo keynote in January, Apple announces that it has dropped “Computer” from its name. Oh, yeah, and it announces the iPhone and releases the Apple TV. In May, Apple’s share price surpasses $100.

2008 - On July 11, Apple launches the App Store in iTunes, which sells apps for the iPhone and iPod touch. On December 16, Apple announces that 2009 will be its last year exhibiting at Mac Expo.

2009 - On January 14, Jobs tells Apple employees in an email that he will take a medical leave of absence through the end of June to concentrate on recovering from a hormone imbalance and try to step out of the media spotlight for a time.

1. It’s designed to make it faster and easier to get computing tasks done. This is mostly thanks to its “plain English” approach, especially compared to Windows, which has a legacy of being built by engineers for engineers and is, as a result, less intuitive for the everyday nontechnical user.

2. OS X makes it easier to find out about your computer. (For example, to find out key info about your Mac, such as which version of OS X you’re running, system specs, and so on, select Apple Menu > About This Mac. If you need to know your Mac’s IP address, go to System Preferences > Network and the info you’re looking for will appear.)

3. OS X is more secure than Windows. Yes, we know it’s because until recently, Macs were so much less common than Windows PCs that hackers didn’t bother writing viruses and malware for OS X, and there were fewer pieces of Mac software out there in which to exploit vulnerabilities. But there are more Macs out there than ever, and the number of Windows threats grows daily. To date, there are still no known widespread viruses or Trojan horse attacks aimed specifically at OS X.

4. The Mac OS is just prettier than Windows. Does that sound petty? To some, we’re sure it does, but to anyone who would mock, we say, “Stuff it.” How’s that for petty?

We’re not talking about Command-Z for undo, Command-C for copy, and Command-V for paste--although we’ve practically worn out the Z, P, and V keys, we use those combos so often, and we’re always surprised at how many people don’t know about those easy-peasy ones. No, here are the must-know, tattoo-them-on your-knuckles OS X keyboard shortcuts. And while we’re at it, here’s a quick cheat sheet for deciphering the symbols on keyboard shortcuts lists you find online or in software user manuals and pull-down menus.

GUIDE TO KEYBOARD SYMBOLS

KEY	WHAT IT DOES
⌘	Command (sometimes referred to as the “Apple key”)
⌥	Option
⇧	Shift
⌃	Control
⎋	Escape

TOP 6 HANDIEST OS X KEYBOARD SHORTCUTS

KEY COMBO	WHAT IT DOES
Command-H	Hides current app window (doesn’t work in all apps, particularly Adobe apps, which often use a different key combo for Hide, but it works in all Apple software and many other popular apps).
Command-Shift-3	Snaps a screenshot of the entire screen.
Command-Shift-4	Brings up crosshairs so you can draw a box around just the part of the screen you want to capture. (If you press Tab or Space after Command-Shift-4, then click on the window, you’ll get a clean shot of just that window, and nothing else.)
Command-Tab	Lets you tab through open applications to choose another app to switch to.
Command-Spacebar	Opens the Spotlight field without having to click its icon in the menubar.
Command-Option-Escape	Lets you force-quit a misbehaving or stalled app.

OS X’s command-line utility is called the Terminal. It can be a powerful tool for customizing the way your Mac behaves. Tinkering with the Terminal without a bit of background info isn’t advisable; heed our warnings in our “25 Terminal Tips Every Mac User Should Know” before trying out these basic commands. To launch the Terminal, go to /Applications/Utilities/Terminal, and execute by pressing Return.

FIVE TERMINAL COMMANDS EVERY MAC GEEK SHOULD KNOW

KEY	WHAT IT DOES
defaults write com.apple.screencapture type JPG	Changes the default OS X screen-capture format from PNG to JPG (you can also use GIF or PDF, if you prefer one of those formats).
defaults write com.apple.dashboard mcx-disabled -boolean YES then execute: killall Dock	Disables the Dashboard.
diskutil secureErase freespace 3 /Volumes/name-of-drive	Securely erases data on the free space of a Mac hard drive called Macintosh HD (you would replace name-of-drive with the name of the drive you wish to erase, of course).
defaults write com.apple.Safari TargetedClicksCreateTabs –bool TRUE	Makes all links in Safari open as separate tabs, not separate windows.
defaults write com.apple.mail PreferPlainText –bool TRUE	Forces Mail to display all messages as plain text.

You probably didn’t know you could change these options, but you can.

Apple tried its best to give us the most useful set of icons in various iPhone menus, but there are also more ways to customize them than you might think. In the case of the icons that appear at the bottom of the screen when you tap iPod from the Home screen, you can change the default icons (Playlists, Artists, Songs, Videos) if you want to. Tap More, then tap Edit. On the resulting Configure screen, you can select an icon from the middle, hold your finger on it for a moment, and drag it down to the bottom to replace one of the defaults. If you like to separate your music collection by genre, for example, move Genres down to replace one of the defaults. Or if you’re a big audiobook listener, put Audiobooks at the bottom instead of Playlists. Tap Done when you’re through.

When a contact has two phone numbers, you’ll get your choice of which to text.

Favorites and Recents are handy for quickly placing phone calls to people in your Favorites and Recents lists, but you can also text too. If you’re not already in the phone feature, press the Home button and tap the phone icon. Tap either Favorites or Recents. To text someone in either list, tap the blue right-arrow-in-a-circle icon next to their name or number and on the Info screen tap Text Message. If a contact in your Favorites has more than one number associated with it, you’ll get a choice of which number to use for the text message.

Mac OS X uses a subsystem based on a Unix-style OS that uses permissions in its file system. Every file and folder on your hard drive has an associated set of permissions that determines who can read, write to, or execute it. Sometimes these permissions get jumbled and cause permissions errors, but there’s an easy way in Leopard to check your permissions and make necessary repairs to them. Disk utility’s Repair Disk Permissions feature verifies and—if necessary—repairs the permissions on Apple-originated files and folders, specifically Mac OS X system-related objects and Apple apps that come with OS X. Repair Disk Permissions only verifies and repairs the permissions of Apple-originated objects whose receipts are in the /Library/Receipts directory. This means that Repair Disk Permissions will not correct permissions problems in third-party software or anything in the Macintosh HD/Users folder, such as your Home folder and its contents.

The permissions repair process may take a few minutes. When it’s done you’ll get a report that might look a little like this.

To repair permissions, go to /Applications/Utilities and launch Disk Utility. Under the First Aid tab, select your hard drive on the left and click Repair Disk Permissions.

Get the full 411 on your Mac with two clicks.

Super Mac geeks may scoff at this, but anyone who’s never needed to find this on a Mac--especially switchers who might have tried to uncover this info on their Windows PC to no avail—will be delighted how easy it is. To find out what version of OS X you’re running, as well as your Mac’s processor speed, amount and type of RAM, simply go to Apple > About This Mac.

Spotlight is even smarter in Leopard than you thought! It can solve math problems too.

Attention, all English majors! The Calculator isn’t the fastest way your Mac can do basic math for you. If you waste time hunting for the Calculator in /Applications/Utilities, or even if you finally put the Calculator in your Dock, you needn’t have because Spotlight can do calculations for you, as long as you have OS X Leopard. All you need to remember is that * is multiplication, / (forward slash) is division, and + and – mean what they should. The next time you need to know what 589 + 785 is, press Command-Space to bring up Spotlight, type 589 + 785, and press Return.

The Finder has a lot going for it, especially compared to Explorer in Windows. But we find Finder’s quick-and-dirty key commands the most useful, particularly Command-I, which, when pressed when a file or app in the Finder is highlighted, brings up the Inspector and shows you all the gory details, including the file or app’s type, size, where it’s saved on your hard drive, when it was created and last modified, and so on. If you’re looking at a list of files, you can also right-click the file name and choose Get Info. To bring up the Inspector in Quick Look, type Command-Option-I.

Acrobat Pro is a powerful tool, but you don’t need to spend $449 to own your own copy, since creating a PDF of any file is built right in to OS X.

Switchers will love this one: In OS X Leopard, making a PDF out of any document doesn’t require Adobe Acrobat. All you need to do is open the file you want to PDF and choose File > Print (or Command-P). In the printer field, click the up/down arrow to the right and select Adobe PDF.

A short, sweet dock is a beautiful thing. Note that your alias folder Dock item will take on the icon of the first item in the list, in our case, it’s Adium.

It’s best to leave applications in the Applications folder and generally use Mac OS X’s built-in organization, rather than moving apps around so you can open them from, say, your Desktop—that’s what the Dock’s for, after all. But you can still keep most-used apps and files accessible by creating a folder of aliases and stashing it in your Dock. On your Desktop, create a new folder by right-clicking and choosing New Folder, or by pressing Shift-Command-N. Give it a name; we’re calling ours Most Used. Go to the place on your hard drive where your frequently used apps and docs live. For apps, that’s obviously the Applications folder. Find your most-used apps in the list and right-click each, then select Make Alias. The alias will appear directly below the original app. Drag the alias from the Finder window to the alias folder you created on your desktop. Do the same with frequently used files. When you’re done, drag your aliases folder onto your Dock (to the right of the separator between app icons and the Trash). Now if you really want to get tricky, you can remove all of the duplicates in your Dock (by dragging each one off or right-clicking each one and choosing Remove from Dock), leaving just your alias folder and anything else that’s there by default (open apps most likely)—freeing up a nice chunk of Dock real estate (see also #20, “the Dock Is Cool, But It Ain’t Perfect,” for more Dock customization tips).

It looks like a bunch of gobbledygook to normal people, but your IT dude could find some dirty laundry lurking here, unless you purge Safari’s cache in the Terminal.

If you think that checking Private Browsing in Safari’s preferences actually keeps the websites you visit private, think again. Anyone--your boss or IT guy included--can see exactly where you’re surfing by executing the following Terminal command: dscacheutil -cachedump -entries Host

To purge Safari’s cache for real, execute this Terminal command: dscacheutil -flushcache

Other World Computing makes beefing up your Mac’s memory as easy as possible—just short of bringing you a cold beer after you’re done, to toast your Mac’s new memory bump. Most fairly recent Macs—except the MacBook Air, whose RAM is soldered to the motherboard—make it easy to add more RAM yourself. And OWC has how-to tutorials and videos to get you going—as well as some of the most affordable prices on Mac memory that we’ve found.

Here we present the steps for adding more RAM to an Intel Core 2 Duo MacBook Pro with only 2GB of RAM, but OWC sells RAM for many Mac models and provides DIY installation info, including video how-tos in some cases—on its site at www.macsales
.com/memory. There are also excellent DIY upgrade resources at www.everymac.com.

To install more RAM in an Intel Core 2 Duo MacBook Pro, you will need a #0 magnetized Phillips screwdriver, a non-marring work surface (spreading a clean towel on a desk or table works fine), and a tool called a spudger or, in Apple parlance, a “black stick”; these are available for $2.95 at iFixit. Most RAM installation manuals will tell you to also use an ESD wrist strap or mat to avoid damaging sensitive internal components with electrostatic charges, but you can touch any metal, grounded appliance while it’s plugged in to remove any static electricity in your fingers before getting started.

FOLLOW THESE STEPS:

Grab your specs. Those are some tiny screws.

1. If you’ve used the notebook recently and it’s still warm, let it cool down before you get started. Remove the MacBook Pro’s battery and turn the machine over so the battery side is face up. Remove the three screws from the memory door.

Here’s what RAM looks like.

2. Remove the memory door to expose the existing memory modules.

Use your thumbs to spread the tiny metal tabs to remove the RAM.

3. To remove each memory module, carefully spread the two locking tabs for the slot (top or bottom) away from the card on both sides and allow the card to pop up slightly.

4. Pull the card straight back and out of the memory slot

Slide the new RAM in until it clicks.

5. To install a memory card, insert the card at a 25-degree angle behind the locking tabs of the top slot. Firmly push the card straight into the slot until it is fully and securely seated along its length. If the back of the card drops down before it is fully seated, raise it up enough to push it fully into the slot.

NOTE: If installing two cards, install into the bottom slot first. When finished installing memory into the bottom slot, use your spudger, leveraged against the frame to push the back of the card toward the slot, to verify that the card is firmly seated. Align the notch in the memory card with the tooth in the slot before inserting.

6. When the card is fully seated, push it straight down until the tabs click onto both sides of the card, locking it into place.

You’ll hear a click when you slide in the RAM, but use your black stick to be sure it’s in.

7. To ensure that the memory cards are seated securely, for the lower card, use a black stick leveraged against the frame to evenly push along the back of the card.

When your iPhone or iPod touch crashes or locks up, you need to reset it. To do this it, hold the Sleep/Wake button at the top right of the device and the Home button at the same time. Hold both buttons until you see the screen go black and the white Apple logo appear. When this happens, you can let go: The device is rebooting.

To reset an iPod with a clickwheel, press and hold the Menu and center buttons at the same time until the Apple logo appears, usually in 6 to 8 seconds.

You can return to a saved email draft on your iPhone at your leisure--just as you can in Mail on your Mac.

To save a message as a draft that you can come back to later for revisions or to send once you return to a Wi-Fi or 3G zone, tap Cancel as you’re drafting the email. Then tap Save. After a few minutes, you will be able to locate the message in a Drafts folder.

Once Apple’s syncing service worked through its kinks, it turned out to be quite reliable—and useful for keeping all of your info synced across your computers, iPhones, and so on. But if $99 a year seems like a lot to pay, check it out on Amazon.com, where it sells for $79.99. If you’re comfortable buying on eBay, there are amazing MobileMe discounts to be had. We found NIB (new in box) individual-user copies for as low as $45 and family Packs for as low as $74.99 (it normally costs $149).

Ah, the geekiest of Mac geek knowledge—how to play a game in OS X’s text-only command-line utility. But, yes, it’s possible. Here’s how:

1. Launch Terminal.
2. Type emacs and press Return.
3. Press Escape, then type x.
4. Type tetris. That’s all there is to it.

OK, the graphics won’t impress, but if you’re really hurting for something to do…

Go to System Preferences > Desktop & Screen Saver and under the Desktop tab, select Pictures, then check Change picture and select your desired interval.

Most Leopard users have their favorite Desktop backgrounds. Steve Jobs seemed to always prefer the Dew Drop image, while Phil Schiller rocked Aurora during his first keynote. But you don’t have to limit yourself to just one—and you don’t have to stick to Apple’s provided images. We like to use our Desktop as a kind of digital picture frame/slide show by setting our Desktop & Screen Saver System Preference to look in our Pictures folder and cycle through the images therein.

Here’s how to optimize Leopard’s Dock to save time and take better advantage of Leopard’s Stacks feature.

To tell the Dock to only show certain items in the Recent Items stack, Control-click it and choose your poison.

ADD A RECENT ITEMS STACK

This stack comes in handy if you work in certain apps or docs in extended spurts rather than daily.

1. Fire up the Terminal.

2. Type defaults write com.apple.dock persistent-others -array-add ‘{ “tile-data” = { “list-type” = 1; }; “tile-type” = “recents-tile”; }’ and press Return. Type killall Dock and press Return.

3. When the Dock restarts, Control-click the Recents stack and select what you want.

Can you see me now? Zoom in to get a closer look at Dock icons by pressing Control-Shift.

GET A CLOSER LOOK AT DOCK ICONS

You already know that you can set the dock magnification in System Preferences > Dock, but if you normally keep your Dock icons pretty small to avoid eating up screen real estate, you can magnify them on the fly by pressing Shift-Control while mousing over them.

One of Adium’s handiest features is the transcript viewer, which lets you view transcripts from all of your recent chats--especially handy for documenting business communications via IM.

ADIUM

The only thing iChat beats Adium on, in terms of features, is its ability to do both audio and video chat, in addition to text chat. That said, Adium kicks iChat’s booty by offering the following features that iChat lacks or lags on:

>   Ability to log in to multiple IM accounts (AIM, GoogleTalk, Yahoo, and so on) simultaneously.

>   More flexible status management.

>   Much more customizable interface.

>   Growl support (Growl lets Mac OS X applications unobtrusively notify you when certain events occur; see
growl.info for details).

If you click the small arrow to the left of Firefox’s Search field, you can choose which search sites will appear by selecting the ones you want from the list or viewing more choices by clicking Get More Search Engines.

FIREFOX 3

Safari is OK as browsers go...but OK doesn’t cut it for Web browsers these days, considering how much time the average person spends online. Here are the reasons we cite when we go to the mat for Firefox over Safari:

>   ADD-ONS: Our favorite Firefox add-ons are Read It Later, LeechBlock, Delicious, and Toodledo, just to name a few. Go to Tools > Add-Ons and click Get Add-ons to discover your own must-haves.

>   BETTER SEARCHING: Sure, Safari has the Google search box up in the toolbar, but Firefox’s seemingly identical search box is a lot more powerful. Click the tiny arrow next to the Google icon to search other sites instead—Wikipedia, Amazon, IMDb, and tons more. Click Manage Search Engines to customize the list.

>   BETTER BOOKMARKING: Safari lets you name your bookmarks and decide where to keep them. Firefox lets you do that, plus add tags, keywords, and descriptions to help you find your bookmarks quickly or even launch them by just typing the keyword into the address bar.

>   SMART ADDRESS BAR: When you type something in Firefox’s Smart Address Bar, the app generates a list of possible results based on your history and bookmarks, and you can use the arrows to select one and press Return to launch it. This keeps you from having to click on your Bookmarks or History list to find sites.

>   MASTER PASSWORD: This keeps your saved passwords under another layer of security by requiring you to enter a master password once per session. Find it in Firefox > Preferences > Security > Use A Master Password.

Since Safari and Firefox both support FTP, you might just be tempted to upload and download files from your own FTP server using your browser of choice. To that we say, “Don’t do it!” FTP file transfers are much more reliable using a dedicated FTP app. There are a variety of freeware and shareware FTP apps for the Mac, but we’ve always been partial to Cyberduck. And now the smarties over at MacTips.org (www.mactips.org) have confirmed our choice by offering several reasons Cyberduck rocks:

> You can upload files to your FTP server via a handy Dashboard widget.

> Cyberduck has AppleScript support.

> In Preferences> Bandwidth, you can set the maximum bandwidth Cyberduck can use at any time. You can also limit bandwidth at the transfer level by pressing Command-T and limit the maximum number of connections to your FTP server in Preferences > Connection.

> Cyberduck lets you to edit a text file remotely as if it were stored on your local disk. Just Control-Click the file, select Edit With, then choose your text editor.

For more reasons to use Cyberduck, see Mactips.

We’re cheapskates—or should we say, careful with our money? We present two affordable ways to create ringtones for your iPhone with songs that are already in your iTunes library. The first uses GarageBand ‘09, which you might have on your Mac if you bought it very recently, as part of the iLife creativity suite. The second requires QuickTime Pro.

MAKE A RINGTONE IN GARAGEBAND ‘09

1. Be sure you have a song that is not protected by DRM (digital rights management) that you can use for your ringtone. The easiest way to do this is to import a song from a music CD into iTunes by inserting the disc into your Mac’s optical drive and clicking Import when iTunes asks if you’d like to import it. If you really want to use a DRM-protected song you bought from the iTunes store, you can burn it to a CD as an audio file in iTunes (create a playlist by pressing Command-N and dragging it to the new playlist, select the playlist and then click Burn Disc). You can do this in fewer steps using Rogue Amoeba’s Audio Hijack Pro ($32).

The icon to the left of the LCD in the bottom center is the metronome. Change its units of measure to Time by clicking it and selecting Time.

2. Launch GarageBand and press Command-N to create a new project. Select iPhone Ringtone in the sidebar of the new file dialog, click Choose, and name your ringtone. To get your desired song file into the project window, click the Media Browser icon in the bottom-right of the GarageBand window to view your iTunes library. Select the song you just imported from a CD and drag it to the project window. Or, if you’re using an iTunes song that you burned to a disc, put the disc into your CD drive, double-click the CD icon on your Desktop and drag the song from the Finder onto the center portion of the GarageBand workspace. Change the ruler display at the top to show seconds by clicking the metronome icon in the LCD at the bottom and choose Time from the pop-up options. This will make it easier to see where you want to start and stop your ringtone, which can be no longer than 40 seconds.

We only made the cycle region for Coldplay’s “Viva La Vida” 23 seconds because we just wanted that much of the song.

3. To create a cycle region that’s no longer than 40 seconds, drag the length of the yellow ruler at the top, so it’s shorter than 40 seconds. To make it easier to see that far to the right, click the eye icon in the lower-right to hide the loops and media viewers. Click the |< icon (back-to-the-beginning button) to go to the beginning of the song and listen to it, so you can tell if you like how the cycle region falls. If not, make adjustments as necessary. To start the ringtone in the middle of the song, position the mouse at the beginning of the loop (far left) until you see an icon that looks like a left arrow and a right arrow with an open bracket in the middle. Click and drag to “cut” the song, so it starts where you want it to (it helps to move the playhead to that point, so you can use the red line as a guide for where to stop dragging). Press Play to listen to it to make sure you like how it falls. If you cut off too much, press Command–Z and start over.

4. When you’re happy with your ringtone, save it and choose Share > Send Ringtone to iTunes. Once it’s done converting, iTunes will launch and start playing your new ringtone. Sync your iPhone with iTunes to get the ringtone onto your phone.

MAKE A RINGTONE IN QUICKTIME PRO

It costs $29.99 to upgrade to QuickTime Pro from the free QuickTime Player (www.apple.com/quicktime), but you can accomplish the same results for free using Audacity (audacity.sourceforge.net).

1. In QuickTime Pro, go to File > Open and pick an audio file. As with GarageBand, don’t use a DRM-protected audio file.

2. Slide the sliders (below the line that shows your track’s progress) around the section of the audio you want to use as your ringtone. This isn’t as precise as doing it in GarageBand—it can help to make the QuickTime Player window really, really wide, so you get a little finer control.

3. When you’ve got your 30 seconds or so of music selected, press Command-C or go to Edit > Copy to copy that section to the clipboard. Press Command-N or go to File > New Player to open a new QuickTime window and press Command-V to paste in your audio clip.

The key to converting your selection to the proper ringtone format is to save it as an .m4r file.

4. Press Command-E (or go to File > Export) to export the file to your Desktop as RINGTONE-NAME.m4r, replacing RINGTONE-NAME with whatever you want to call it.

5. Double-click your new ringtone in the Finder to import it to iTunes, and then sync it to your phone.

If your Command-H trigger fingers are getting sore from all that window hiding--or if you’re just stuck with too many apps and docs to work with and too small a monitor, you can set the Dock to hide all windows except the app window you want by executing this Terminal command: defaults write com.apple.dock single-app -bool TRUE. Press Return, then type killall Dock.

Now every time you click an app icon in the Dock, it will open the most recent window used in that app and hide all other windows until you call them forth. The other way to accomplish this is to press Command-Option while clicking an app icon in the Dock.

Can’t recall what key presses do what on your Mac? The Keyboard & Mouse > Keyboard Shortcuts System Preference reveals all.

We provided a short list of our favorite OS X shortcuts earlier, but you can totally personalize the key combos on your Mac if you want. Go to System Prefs > Keyboard & Mouse > Keyboard Shortcuts.

This System Preference is also useful for learning the existing shortcuts, as well as changing the ones you don’t use to something more memorable.

You get to choose what your keyboard modifiers do.

If you’re an accidental Caps Lock presser, you can disable that key to prevent yourself from accidentally turning it on as you type (Go to System Preferences > Keyboard & Mouse > Keyboard > Modifier Keys and set No Action For Caps Lock). In fact, you can disable or change the action of all the modifier keys--Control, Option, Command, and so on. If you’ve recently switched from a Windows PC to a Mac, you might want to disable the Control key, for example, until you get used to pressing Command instead--or you could change the Control key’s action to Command.

Out of the box, many of the multitouch gestures available on new trackpads built into the MacBook Air and the unibody MacBooks and MacBook Pros will only work with a limited number of applications. You can add this functionality to many more apps with help from MultiClutch (donationware).

Imagine changing tabs in Firefox with a three-finger swipe to the left. Or launching the spell checker in Mail or Microsoft Word with a three-finger swipe to the right. Or raising the volume of iTunes with a two-finger rotate to the right. Or zooming in on your photos in older versions of Photoshop with an outward pinch of your fingers. You get the idea. You’re going to love MultiClutch.

Relaunching the Finder comes in handy when a force-quit or some other gremlin hangs up your machine to the point where it just won’t budge. To do this, press, Option-Control-click on the Finder icon in the Dock, then choose Relaunch. Or just Option-right-click on the Finder icon if you have a two-button mouse.

Big Brother is always watching, but we can’t figure out why Apple insists on stamping each song we buy from the iTunes store with your name and email address. If that gives you the heebie-jeebies, you can strip that data—which, by the way, is only accessible with a bit of Terminal know-how—using a freebie app called Privatunes.

If you’ve got just a single Ethernet cable attached to one Mac and multiple Macs in your home or office, you can all get online if you share your Internet connection via the built-in AirPort card (MacBooks, late-model iMacs, and certain Mac Pros have this; Go to Apple > About This Mac to determine if your Mac’s got built-in AirPort. Go to System Preferences > Sharing. Select Internet Sharing. Change your options to share from Ethernet in the drop-down list and then click AirPort in the “To Computers Using” box. Click AirPort options to give your network a name and password. When you have everything the way you like it, turn Internet sharing on.

If you use the Apple Remote and have more than one Mac in a room, you can inadvertently control both Macs at once.

The fix is to pair your Apple Remote to just one Mac, so it will only control one machine. On the Mac you want to control, Go to System Preferences > Security > General. Click the Pair button. Now hold the remote a few inches from the IR port on your computer. On the remote, hold down the Menu and Next buttons at the same time. The computer will display the paired-remote graphic when it’s done pairing.

Mozy.com (free for up to 2GB) and Dropbox (free for up to 2GB) are two options for backing up your files online instead of to an external drive. If you use MobileMe, you can even have the included Backup app archive important files to your iDisk--just not anything too large, since your iDisk storage tops out at 20GB. (You can upgrade to 40GB for $49 a year or 60GB for $99 a year.)

Productivity whiz Merlin Mann--a true Mac geek--uses Path Finder ($39.95) instead of the Finder. It works like the Finder, but with more features: drawers for information about volumes and files, a handy Drop Stack area for corralling files, plus a built-in Terminal emulator, text editor, PDF viewer, and image converter.

Zapping your PRAM (parameter RAM) erases settings stored by the internal battery.

1. Shut down the computer, and locate the Command, Option, P, and R keys on the keyboard. We’re not being cheeky, but we want you to be prepared because you’ll need to hold these keys down simultaneously in step 3.

2. Turn on the computer.

3. Press and hold Command-Option-P-R. You must press this key combination before the gray screen appears.

4. Hold the keys down until the computer restarts and you hear the startup sound for the second time, then release the keys.

Let your feet do the walking after your fingers do the clicking.

In case you hadn’t noticed, Google Maps now offers biking or walking directions to a destination. In major cities, you can even get directions for taking public transit. To hoof it, in Google Maps, just click Walking when your directions come up. Mother Earth thanks you, by the way!

Sometimes it takes awhile for new podcasts to show up in the iTunes store. If you come across one you’d like to subscribe to, you can still subscribe even if it’s not yet on offer in the store. Copy the podcast feed to your clipboard (from a blog or whatever site you found it on). In iTunes, choose Advanced > Subscribe To Podcast, then paste in the podcast link.

You could use FileVault to store your top-secret data files, but there’s no need to bog down your system--FileVault is notoriously sluggish--when you can accomplish the same ends for specific files, such as tax returns, home-inventory lists, wedding vows, or anything else you want to keep under virtual lock and key. For these types of files, we like to create encrypted disk images (.dmg files), which is easy to do in Disk Utility.

1. Launch Disk Utility (/Applications/Utilities).

2. Choose File > New > Blank Disk Image and enter a name for your disk image in the Save As field. This name is used for the disk image (.dmg) file. Note the location specified in the Where pop-up menu. If you want to save the image file in a different location, change it.

3. Select a size for the image file from the Size pop-up menu. Choose a size appropriate for the disk’s needs. You can always create another one later if you need more space.

4. Choose 128-bit AES encryption from the Encryption drop-down.

5. Choose read/write disk image from the Image Format drop-down.

6. Click Create.

When you select a password for your disk image, Disk Utility tells you what it thinks of the password’s strength—that is, its crackability.

7. Enter and verify a good password in the dialog window that appears. This password will be saved in your Keychain by default, or you can deselect “Remember password (add to Keychain)” if you don’t want that.

8. Click OK.

Ever tried tapping “xoxo” to the end of a text to your BFF on the iPhone? You’ll notice the phone’s auto-correct feature selects “so” for the first “xo.” To keep the iPhone from trying to auto-correct any word, just add an extra letter or two, so it looks like a word that doesn’t exist—this will, in most cases, confuse it to the point where it won’t try to guess what you’re trying to say. Of course, remember that this workaround does not help the iPhone ”learn” words you use most, which is supposed to help you type faster.

Are you bugged by those bouncing Dock icons when an app wants to get your attention? You can Turn off that behavior for good with two simple Terminal commands:

defaults write com.apple.dock no-bouncing -bool TRUE

Press Return.

Type: killall Dock

If you don’t have an Intel Mac, you could also try Unsanity’s Dock Detox (free,).

And if you decide you want the bouncing back after you’ve run the above Terminal command, you can reverse it by executing: defaults write com.apple.dock no-bouncing -bool FALSE. Press Return. Type: killall Dock.

Filter any non-music items in your iTunes library by setting up a new music-only Smart Playlist.

If you’ve never played with Smart Playlists in iTunes, you’ll be delighted to discover that “smart” is no misnomer. Our two favorite ways to use Smart Playlists are for creating them on the fly just by clicking a few parameters. They save time by not forcing you to manually create playlists--and they let you filter out a variety of media that iTunes can track and keep updated, no matter how large your iTunes library gets.

The smartest Smart Playlists of all is one that contains only music. We’re sure that there’s way more than music in your iTunes library, and if you listen to music wearing headphones throughout the workday, creating a music-only Smart Playlist saves you fiddling with iTunes when you should be, well, working.

Your ears will thank you for keeping the tunes fresh.

To create a music-only Smart Playlist, press Option-Command-N or go to File > New Smart Playlist. Check the box next to “Match the following rules.” Now set up the “rules” governing your Smart Playlist by selecting a variety of characteristics that will filter just music into the playlist. For example, you want to eliminate podcasts, audiobooks, and movies, and you might even need to weed out a few specialized playlists or genres. After adding each new rule, click the plus symbol to add a new blank one. When you’re satisfied, check Live Updating, click OK, and name your new Smart Playlist in the sidebar.

Another cool Smart Playlist helps you keep your music selection fresh. All you do is create a new Smart Playlist and next to Last Played, set it to “is not in the last 1 weeks.”

iTunes is a smarter multitasker and media organizer than you might realize. It can help you manage all the PDFs on your Mac, with a few minutes of prep work on your part.

First, create a new iTunes library (launch iTunes while holding the Option key, then click Create Library) and get rid of all the music-related things. That includes deleting the default playlists iTunes creates and customizing the library display by removing the columns that are no longer pertinent. Just right-click in the column header and uncheck the label. Go to iTunes > Preferences and uncheck “Copy files to iTunes Music folder when adding to library” under the Advanced tab. That will leave the files where they are now rather than creating another copy of them in the ~/Music/iTunes/iTunes Music folder. While you’re at it, uncheck the display options under the General tab and check the Disable options under the Parental Control tab. That will eliminate the unnecessary options on the screen.

Now you’re ready to add PDF files to the library. Choose File > Add To Library, then Option-select your PDF files. Just like music tracks, they’ll show up in the iTunes library sorted alphabetically by name. It’s best to tag each file right when you add it to your Mac. One obvious way to tag a file is using the Genre column. Press Command-I (or right-click a file and select Get Info) and add your own description in the Genre field. We used the Genre field as a metatag (“Checks” or “Statements,” for example) and put additional description in the Comment field. There are no limits on how to reassign the fields in the Get Info window.

Now you have to choose between Smart Playlists and user-defined playlists. If you add good metadata to each file, the Smart Playlist is the logical choice. If you don’t feel like adding a lot of tags to your files, then create your own playlists and manually add files.

If you’re in the habit of using acronyms and abbreviations in emails and text messages on the iPhone, you might have noticed that it’s a bit of a pain on the iPhone’s keyboard since Shift only activates caps on one letter, then switches off. The solution is to enable Caps Lock in your iPhone’s Settings (Settings > General > Keyboard > Enable Caps Lock). Now, when you’re in the keyboard, you can double-tap the Shift key, it will turn blue, and caps lock stays on until you tap the Shift key again to turn it off...you know, just FYI.

You can use the Terminal command SSH to open a secure connection to another Mac pretty easily. Best of all, via SSH, it’s free, whereas Apple charges $499 for Apple Remote Desktop, its desktop management app.

First make sure that SSH log-ins are enabled on the remote Mac by opening System Preferences > Sharing. Check the box next to Remote Login, and the SSH service will activate.

To connect to that remote computer via SSH, open the Terminal on the local machine and execute this command: ssh -l username remote-address. Replace username with your username on the remote Mac and remote-address with the remote Mac’s IP address. (The remote IP address is listed in the remote machine’s Sharing pane when you click on Remote Login.) Press Return, and enter the remote username’s password at the prompt. SSH will connect you to the remote machine. (If you’re asked to add the remote machine to a list of known hosts, type Y for yes.)

Once you’re connected, you can execute any Terminal command remotely. Try this one, just for fun: say “Ouch. Don’t press the keys so hard.” This is especially amusing if you’re executing the remote command on a Mac in a nearby room, so you can witness the user’s reaction to the Mac “talking.”

Set the iPhone’s timer for however long you think you’ll need to drift off to dreamland, then choose Sleep iPod as the timer action, instead of a ringtone.

Obviously, you won’t apply this tip if you’re driving. But if you’re taking a long plane, train, or car ride and want your iPod to play for a set time so you can take a snooze--without taxing the phone’s battery after you’re snoring away--you can use the phone’s timer so that your music plays until the timer is up. Tap the Clock icon on the Home screen, tap Timer, and then tap When Timer Ends to see your choices. The first item on the list is Sleep iPod. Tap Set. Also remember: The iPhone’s timer is truly handy...it can help you remember to switch your laundry, take a roast out of the oven, or anything else that you’d use a kitchen timer for.

Tell your iPhone where you want to go with a double-press of the Home button.

It’s a wonder our iPhones’ Home buttons haven’t worn out from so much pressing--and here’s another trick that will get that button even more use: To set up your iPhone to go directly to a certain function menu with a double-press, tap Settings > General > Home Button. If you haven’t changed this setting, the default for a double-press on Home is to go to the Home screen, but you can change it to go to your iPhone Favorites or the iPod instead. You can also turn iPod Controls on or off here--If you select On, double-pressing Home while the iPod is playing media displays the iPod controls.

If you can’t get your machine to start at all—not even in Safe Mode—and you don’t have your system disk handy, you can start up in single-user mode and use fsck to set things right. fsck is a command-line utility similar to Disk Utility.

Reboot your Mac while holding down Command-S.

At the command-line prompt type: /sbin/fsck –fy. After fsck does its Unix magic you will see one of the following messages: ** The volume (name_of_volume) appears to be OK. If you see that, you’re golden. Or you might see: ***** FILE SYSTEM WAS MODIFIED *****. If you see that, you need to run fsck repeatedly until you see the first message.

When you’re finished, at the command-line prompt, type: reboot.

Your Mac will restart now.

Trouble starting up? If your Mac won’t start up, try using Safe Boot. Safe Boot loads your Mac into Safe Mode and runs a series of utilities during startup.

Start up in Safe Mode by holding down the Shift key when you start or restart. After you’ve started your machine successfully, restart the machine in normal mode. Safe Mode disables many OS X features and shouldn’t be used for anything other than troubleshooting.

Introduced in OS X Tiger, Automator is like a personal assistant for busy Mac users. The standalone app, found in the Applications folder, can light a fire under your productivity by, well, automating certain repetitive tasks in most Mac apps. One smart way to get started with Automator is to locate freeware and shareware Automator actions on the Internet and download them. Google automator actions or go to Apple’s site to download them at www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/automator/.

Now, if you want to start by creating a very simple Automator action, try this. It’s an action we use to resize multiple images for posting on the Web or emailing. This action uses a combination of tasks in Finder and Preview to open images you have selected in a Finder window, copy them to a folder called Scaled Images, leaving the originals untouched, scaling each image so it’s 480 pixels wide and saving each scaled image with “_scaled” added to the end of its filename. Here’s how to build this workflow in Automator.

Sure, it’s only a four-step workflow, but our custom Scale Images action saves us hours every week.

1. Launch Automator. Select Files & Folders when asked to select a starting point to open a new workflow.

2. In the far left-hand (Actions) pane of the Automator window, under Library, select Files & Folders.

3. Select Get Selected Finder Items and drag it to the workflow area (where it says “Drag actions or files here to create your workflow”). This becomes Step 1 of your workflow.

4. Select Copy Finder Items from the right side of the Actions pane and drag it to the workflow area below step 1.

5. Since you want to copy the files as they are to a new folder on your Desktop called Scaled Images, under Copy Finder Items To, click the down arrow and select Other. Make sure Desktop is selected at the top of the Open dialog, click New Folder and create a folder called Scaled Images. Select that folder and click Open. Now step 2 in your workflow should say Copy Finder Items to Scaled Images.

6. Now is where the fun begins—can’t you feel it? On the left side of the Actions pane, select Photos, then look for the Preview icon on the right, followed by the words “Scale Images.” Select this and drag it to the workflow pane as step 3 of your workflow.

7. On the left side of the Actions pane, select Files & Folders again and then drag Rename Finder Items to the bottom of the workflow pane. A dialog pops up warning you that this action will change the names of the Finder items passed into it (duh), but you don’t want two copies of each file, so click Don’t Add. Rename Finder Items becomes step 4 of your workflow, but you’re not quite finished.

8. To add “_scaled” to the end of each scaled image’s file name, click the down arrow next to Add Date or Time and select Add Text. In the add field type _scaled and keep “after name” selected to the right. Finally, to test the workflow, open a Finder window with some images in it, select them, and in Automator, click Run. If the workflow runs smoothly, you can save it for future use. The easiest way to save a new Automator action is to save it as an application: File > Save As > Application, then name it. For fastest access, we plopped our Scale Images action into the Dock. Now whenever we have a group of images to scale for posting online, we just select them in a Finder window and drag them to that icon in the Dock. Alternatively, you can also save the Automator action as a Finder plug-in, so it can be accessed by right-clicking on a selection. To do this, choose File > Save As Plug-in.

True Mac geeks rely on a cadre of third-party apps for customizing OS X and working smarter and faster. Here are our essentials, no matter what kind of Mac geek you are. In our case, we use them all.

FOR PRODUCTIVITY GEEKS: Quicksilver (free beta)

FOR AUDIO GEEKS: Audio Hijack Pro ($32)

FOR MENU GEEKS: FruitMenu ($12)

FOR ICON GEEKS: CandyBar ($29)

FOR BACKUP GEEKS: Déjà Vu ($24.95)

FOR CLEAN-DESKTOP GEEKS: DragThing ($29)

There are some things you just can’t take back, like spilling a mug of hot tea on your Mac’s keyboard. But even these kinds of disasters usually have straightforward solutions—as long as you keep your wits about you. In the case of a Mac keyboard or an iPhone taking a soaking, for example, fast, calm reaction is what will save your bacon. For solutions to these and 17 major Mac and iPhone/iPod disasters, see www.maclife.com/article/feature/how_survive_17_worst_mac_disasters.

If you get bored by Terminal Tetris, you can play Snake instead.

Execute this Terminal command: emacs

Press Return, then press Escape-X.

At the prompt type: Snake.

Press Return.

Your goal is to eat the red rectangles while avoiding the walls.

Rotating QuickTime Movies

Scott Rose — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 11:55:39 -0500

Once you upgrade to QuickTime Pro, select one of these buttons to flip or rotate your movie using QuickTime Player.

I recorded a bunch of movies on my digital camera by holding it vertically instead of horizontally, but now they only play sideways on my Mac, and I can’t figure out how to rotate them.

If you upgrade from QuickTime (free, included with Mac OS X) to QuickTime Pro ($29.99, www.apple.com), you gain several extra features, such as basic video editing, conversion of your movies to a variety of formats, and built-in audio and video recording. You can also change the size and orientation of movies that you’ve recorded.

To change the orientation of your movies, open up a movie in QuickTime Player and choose Window > Show Movie Properties. Select the track entitled Video Track and click the Visual Settings tab below. Click one of the rotate buttons to rotate your movie.

Alternatively, check out TransformMovie (variable pricing, www .limit-point.com/Utilities/TransformMovie.html), which is specifically designed for rotating and resizing QuickTime movies.

Apple Releases QuickTime 7.5.5 and Front Row 2.1.6

David W. Martin — Tue, 09 Sep 2008 18:20:25 -0500

Apple released QuickTime 7.5.5 and Front Row 2.1.6 today. Both of these updates were made available immediately after todays presentation by Steve Jobs via the Software Update system preference for Mac. These updates are required prior to installing the new iTunes 8 software.

According to Apple, QuickTime 7.5.5 is recommended for all QuickTime 7 users. The update includes the usual vague Apple references to: changes that increase reliability, improve application compatibility and enhance security.

However being a bit more verbal than usual Apple also identified some security-related changes in this new release of QuickTime 7.5.5. This update will fix a problem involving maliciously crafted QuickTime VR movies, solves some memory corruption issues when using STSZ atoms in movie files and H.264 encoded movie files, and it will correct an issue around PICT images that could lead to the unexpected termination of applications.

Complete information regarding these security updates for QuickTime 7.5.5 can be found here.

Apple's information regarding the Front Row 2.1.6 update provides information that references only improved iTunes 8.0 compatibility and bug fixes. No other information was available regarding this update.

Make High-Def Time-Lapse Movies with a Still Camera

Zack Stern — Wed, 13 Aug 2008 04:53:00 -0500

You’ve seen time-lapse video effects: A smooth sunset peacefully glides into the ocean, jittering traffic patterns swerve at night, and construction projects are instantly assembled. These effects are loaded with emotion, and can take their makers from amateurs to auteurs. We’ll show you how to shoot individual still photos and compile them into an HD video. You’ll need a tripod, still camera—a DSLR is ideal but not required—and QuickTime Pro. The results are much more cinematic than just turning up the playback speed for a video clip. (See our example video at  www.maclife.com/time_lapse.)

What you need: DSLR or other digital camera, Tripod, QuickTime Pro, $29.99, www.apple.com

1. Pick a Subject

A gorgeous sunset or sunrise is a great subject for this project.

You can shoot a time-lapse video of anything, but the process works best with slow-moving subjects. First consider scenes that have a linear pattern. An opening flower clearly has a beginning and ending. A baking cake—or one being cut and served—progresses in an order too. Other effective time-lapse scenes show movement, but no significant progression. Random groups of people walk by on a busy street. Ducks splash around in a pond. The scenes that follow a natural progression are usually more serene, while the nonlinear movement in the second set of examples usually creates chaotic clips. Pick a subject that will look good in your current video project, or just go experiment.

2. Position the Camera

Steady now.

Place the tripod where it can stand for as long as you need. If the camera gets bumped, your work could be ruined. We like aiming from corners and walls, but if you can protect the tripod legs from being bumped by people walking by, you can shoot from anywhere. Frame the scene, and lock the camera on the tripod.

3. Set Manual Controls

Make sure to manually set the exposure and focus for your first shot.

If you’re shooting over hours—and in some cases, minutes—auto settings will change exposure levels based on moving light. This compensation can neutralize the adjustment, while the finished movie will usually look best with these soft changes. Set the camera’s exposure with fully manual controls. Also set the manual focus in the first shot and leave it alone for the rest. (If your point-and-shoot camera doesn’t offer manual settings, you can still create good videos, but you’ll have less influence over the outcome.)

These manual settings also embellish the time-lapse style far beyond the look of a speeded-up video. Keep the flash off, and set a small aperture and longer exposure. Moving subjects will come out blurred, while backgrounds will stay sharp. Car lights will stretch through the frame as they pass. A longer exposure amplifies the effect. Try experimenting with that setting so that faster subjects blur, while slow subjects stay sharp.

4. Shoot the Movie

Do the math to find out how long to wait between exposures—we shot the stars every 72 seconds.

Pick an interval between each frame that suits the subject. To condense about 10 minutes of photos into a several-second video, we often shoot one frame every 20 seconds. But you can estimate the interval by dividing the number of needed frames by the length of the event. For a 15-frames-per-second video, we might want a 10-second shot watching stars track across the sky (15 frames x 10 seconds = 150 frames). Since the real-time event takes about three hours, that’s 10,800 seconds (3 hours x 60 minutes x 60 seconds). That leaves 72 seconds between each shot (10,800 seconds/150 frames). You will no doubt need to experiment to find the best interval for your intended results.

It’s up to you to manually shoot each frame, although some cameras include a time-lapse timer to keep snapping after a set interval. Some cameras are also compatible with time-lapse shutter remotes that do the same thing. If you have neither, we still recommend using a “dumb” shutter remote that just snaps the picture so you can avoid touching the camera. But if it’s tightly anchored to the tripod and you touch it gently, you can still work without those extras. Eventually, you can gradually adjust zoom and framing as you shoot, but practice the basics by leaving the camera pointed in the same place.

5. Import the Photos

Using Image Capture will dump the individual images in a folder on your Mac, instead of adding them to the iPhoto library.

Connect the camera or memory card to your Mac, and open Image Capture (in your Applications folder). From the Download To pop-up menu, choose Other, and create a new folder for the photos. Download all of the images. Navigate to that folder and, if needed, erase any test photos taken before the time-lapse sequence. (Or instead, choose Download Some in Image Capture, and pick only the needed photos.)

6. Assemble the Video

Choose the first photo in your sequence here.

There are several ways that you can turn these images into a movie, but the easiest is with QuickTime Pro ($29.99, www.apple.com). This technique will also create a video file ready for any application.

Open QuickTime Player, and choose File > Open Image Sequence. Pick the first photo, then choose the frame rate. We think 15 frames per second works well. The new window will probably spill far outside your display. Pick View > Fit To Screen to tame the clip. If you play the movie now, you’ll get a rough idea of how it will look. Because the video is likely at an exceptionally high resolution, it’ll probably play at a choppy frame rate. Choose File > Save As to export the shot. Click the radio button to Save As A Self-Contained Movie. Depending on the speed of your system, this might take several minutes.

7. Edit

iMovie can import your clip as full HD, ready for editing.

Open iMovie, Final Cut Express, Final Cut Pro, or your favorite video editor to import the video. In iMovie, pick File > Import Movies. Select the clip, and be sure to import as 1920x1080 resolution. If you want, save disk space by clicking the radio button to Move Files Instead Of Making A Duplicate. Choose Import. Edit the clip, using the crop tool to adjust the framing if desired. Because of the big source file, the video will still play at a choppy rate until you finish and share the final project.

Add Chapter Markers to iMovie ’08 Videos

Steve Paris — Fri, 08 Aug 2008 04:14:00 -0500

iMovie ’08 lacks the chapter-marker feature found in iMovie ’06, but you can still add chapters to an iMovie ’08 project by using GarageBand.

Purchase a movie from the iTunes Store, or extract a film from a DVD with HandBrake, and you’ll end up with a file containing chapter markers that you can use to skip to specific parts of your video in iTunes, on the Apple TV, or on an iPod. Wouldn’t it be great if you could add such markers to your own home movies too?

Unfortunately, although you could add chapters to an iMovie ’06 project, that option is no longer available with iMovie ’08. However, it’s still possible to add them using another member of the iLife suite: GarageBand. We’ll show you how to export your film from iMovie, perform the necessary alterations in GarageBand, save your work without any noticeable loss in image quality, and upload it to an iPod.

What you need: iMovie ’08 7.1.1 ($79 with iLife ’08, www.apple.com), GarageBand ’08 4.1.2 ($79 with iLife ’08, www.apple.com),QuickTime 7.5 (free, www.apple.com), a completed iMovie project ready for export.

1 Export Your Finished iMovie

Since our final destination is iTunes, we’ll export the iMovie project so it’ll look good on an iPod and Apple TV.

Launch iMovie ’08 and select one of your completed films from the Project Library section. With the file highlighted, go to Share > Media Browser to bring up the Export window. Since we’re looking to create a single file that can be played on your Mac, iPod, iPhone, or Apple TV, select the Medium option (even though the iPhone isn’t shown as a compatible option, rest assured that it is—if it works on an iPod or iPod touch, it’ll work on an iPhone). Name your file and click Publish.

2 Head to the Garage

Since podcasts can have audio and video (just like iMovie projects!), you’ll click Create New Podcast Episode.

Launch GarageBand. By default, this application also opens the last project you were working on. Since we need to create a new one, close the current project to get back to the welcome screen. From there, click the Create New Podcast Episode button. Give it a name and save it on the Desktop for convenience.

3 Just Add Movie

Click Replace, and then the Podcast Track at the top of the Tracks list will change to Movie Track.

To the right of your project is the Media Browser. Click the Movies section and select the iMovie folder. Any project that has been published using the method described in step 1 will appear here. One of them should be the film we prepared earlier. Click it and drag it to the main part of the window. You will be asked if you would like to change the podcast track for a movie track. Click Replace to do so.

4 Add the First Marker

Once you select Movie Track in the Tracks list, the chapter marker area shows up at the bottom of the window.

Your movie’s soundtrack (Movie Sound in the screenshot) is selected by default. Click Movie Track instead and notice that the bottom section of the interface changes to a chapter creation and editing area. Without moving the playhead, click the Add Marker button at the lower-left. If you hadn’t done this, GarageBand still would have created a marker at the beginning of your film, but you wouldn’t have been able to change its default name, “Start.”

5 Gotta Mark ’Em All

Check out the Movie Preview area as you add your chapter markers.

Press the spacebar to start your film (the same keyboard shortcut also stops playback). You could work through your project in real time, clicking the Add Marker button or pressing the P key as you reach moments of interest. However, this often leads to very imprecise markers. It’s often much easier to scrub through your footage by dragging the playhead manually—it’s represented by a red line with an upside-down triangle on top. Click and drag that triangle to move through your project; the slower you go, the more precise you’ll be. You can also use the arrow keys, but they move you in half-second increments by default, which may not be good enough for your needs.

6 Play the Name Game

You can think of better chapter names than “Chapter 1” and so on.

Once you’ve created all the chapters you need, you can give them more useful names than the generic ones that GarageBand automatically assigns. The list of chapters is displayed in the lower part of the interface. To rename one, simply click it. To rename them all, hit the Tab key to cycle through them. Ignore the URL title and URL fields, as they’re of no use in this case. Notice that you can also alter the chapter’s timecode manually if you wish.

7 Protect the Quality

Export to Disk (aka your hard drive) at Full Quality to avoid recompressing the same movie twice.

Once all chapters have been named, it is time to export your project. You have two options to achieve this, and both reside in the Share menu. Send Movie To iTunes appears to be the best, since it’ll automatically add your project to an iTunes playlist and hence save a few steps when uploading to an iPod or Apple TV. However, it will also lead to a loss of image quality. This is because GarageBand will re-encode your footage, creating an H.264 copy of an H.264 original, resulting in a grainy video with washed-out colors. Therefore, you should choose Export Movie To Disk instead. Make sure you select Full Quality from the Video Settings pull-down menu to prevent GarageBand from re-encoding your footage, and save your file to the Desktop.

8 Preview in QuickTime

QuickTime lets you jump directly to your chapters.

Find your saved file and double-click it to see it in QuickTime. You can select and navigate through its chapters using a small menu to the right of the timeline. If you notice a mistake and hadn’t saved your GarageBand project, you won’t need to go back to your original iMovie project and start again: You can create a new podcast project instead and drag the file you just exported back into the project window. Then you’ll be able to edit your chapter location or names again. The quickest way to alter the location of a chapter is to delete the current one by selecting it in the Chapter column (at the bottom of the interface), pressing the Delete key, and creating a new one at another point in time.

9 Add to iTunes

Click the gray TV icon (or select Chapters in the menubar) to see all the chapters in your video.

To add your movie to iTunes, drag it from the Finder onto iTunes’ Dock icon. When playing the file from iTunes, you can navigate through its chapters via the menubar (click Chapters) or by pressing Command-Shift-right arrow (or the left arrow to go back). When browsing through a playlist in iTunes, each movie has a light gray TV icon to denote that it’s a video. Clicking that icon will also give you access to your chapters and let you start watching your film from whichever one you select. Those chapters are also accessible on your iPod, iPhone, and Apple TV, and in Front Row.